A blast of green smoke announced the start of Haider Ackermann's spring 2016 collection inside the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadero, and high-volume techno prompted his army to emerge.

As a succession of rainbow-haired international raver punks came down the runway and turned the corner in vivid pastel shades, their looks alternately hugged, draped and flowed from their forms. The Colombian-born, globally raised designer is known for choosing ultra-rich fabrics, and he knows how to wrap a woman's body.

He also knows that how you walk out of a room (or off the runway) is as important as how you walk into it. Backless dresses are having a powerful moment, sure, but Ackermann showed that there's more than one way to style a powerful exit.

In silhouettes that underscored the fluid connection between his men's and women's lines, Ackermann's girl-gang crew first and foremost carried a message of unbuttoned, undone ease. It's like the #wokeuplikethis idea taken to a luxurious conclusion.

Jackets were worn open and loose, trouser legs were either elegantly extra-long or tucked and rolled, and loose, flowing velvet trench coats rounded corners like exotic birds.

And pretty much every time you looked, there was a detail from behind-either in the construction or the styling -that wanted and deserved your attention.

The brand's scarves could practically carry their own show; the Ackermann look isn't quite complete without a tossed-on wrap or a trailing length of fringed-end silk.

Bias-cut velvets and silks had a strong presence on the runway, and especially in those soft, pretty tones, they told a story about '90s minimalism and wild self-expression in purposeful, powerful collision.

Beyond the powerful collection and presentation, there were lessons here about self-styling in general-which is great because it means you can get a jump on the look before the season arrives.

Let the shoulders fall, let the ends spill over, let fit dictate where the hem is high or low, and always leave them wanting more.

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-Laura Cassidy