Last Looks: Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent

Last Looks: Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent

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Stella McCartney brought a breath of fresh air to the end of fashion week, breaking away from the flouncy bohemian and sporty street wear that dominated the spring runways with that honed sense of gamine design only she seems to possess.

Images: InDigital

McCartney sits in an upbeat sartorial category all her own, making a name for herself with bold, energetic designs that speak to the modern woman in search of pieces that predict the next big trend in an effortlessly wearable way. Her spring collection was no exception.

Opening with form-fitting tube dresses that tucked in at the ankle; the designer began her parade of primary-tinted prints, debuting oversized ginghams and lines that weaved within each other. This season brought back a refined version of her popular color blocked pleated shift, this time with a new sense of layered fluidity. Two-toned micro pleated separates asymmetrically curved over one hip while bowing over the opposite knee, in a new-wave leg slit kind of way.

Figure-hugging front sashes wrapped from the collars of boyish polo shirts, crossing over models' torsos as they donned matching knit or denim tube skirts, while double-breasted jackets and vests whose elongated hems reached beyond the hips paired with equally flowing palazzo pants clocked in as the most overtly masculine of pieces. Towards the finale, a sporty bomber jacket and tracksuit embroidered with Keith Haring-inspired squiggles quickly transitioned to decidedly more sultry mesh knit maxis that are sure to become springs most coveted frocks.

Shop: current season Stella McCartney

Hedi Slimane has been injecting the famed French fashion house that is now simply Saint Laurent with a distinctly dark, yet oddly refined punk vibe since his first days as creative director. Unyielding to critiques, the fashion veteran continued to plow forward into spring with his signature style shown right at home in Paris.

Anyone who's been keeping tabs on Slimane since his takeover at Saint Laurent probably can't help but notice a few variations (name change not included), most notably the shift in tone from classic French chic to enviable rock-and-roll androgyny-keep in mind the man used to dress Bowie.

What started as a revival of his skinny suit and staple leather moto has more recently morphed into a heavily '90s grunge-inspired spring collection. Designs embraced the growing trend of dressing down sultry bedroom for the streets, only Slimane's were a more hardened, Courtney Love-inspired take than the feminine and ethereal versions we've seen around, his play on high low manifested in the pairings of silk and sparkle with dollar-store tiaras and farmhouse wellies that are sure to be spotted on stars at the next Glastonbury.

Slinky dresses stood out from one another based on their outerwear pairings which ranged from borrowed-from-your-boyfriend denim, leather and cargo jackets, a version of the famed Le Smoking blazer and a full-shag coat. The man has taken the coveted Parisian casual-chic look to the runway season after season, yet his white tank paired with jeans and staple trench never cease to hit the mark. Impeccable tailoring and a mix of textiles broke up the sea of minis, with floor-grazing strappy maxis that flowed from the thigh-high slits finishing the show. In a nutshell, the collection exuded that certain sellable attitude Slimane has so masterfully harnessed.

Shop: current season Saint Laurent

-Emma Ranniger

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