Last Looks: Yesterday's Runway at Marni, Dolce&Gabbana, MSGM and Missoni

Last Looks: Yesterday's Runway at Marni, Dolce&Gabbana, MSGM and Missoni

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With a vision of modern romanticism, Marni's Conseulo Castiglioni played with proportion and curvature for the eclectic Italian brand's fall collection.

Images: InDigital

Only the Italian designer could translate stirrup pants into something trendy, adding thick waistbands with oversized buttons and pairing them with ballooning sleeves, innovative capes and cutaway layers. Castiglioni's conceptual Italian eye for combining luxury and simplicity resulted in stiff and structural fabrics molded into rounded shoulders, voluminous cinched sleeves and new-wave cutouts. Sporty knits and ski pants are likely street-style contenders, while we're hoping the abstract embroidered tweed power suits are the next big thing in office wear.

Having taken their sartorial exploration of Sicilian history as far as possible, Domenico While the icy blue tinsel midi with burgeoning shoulders, oversized bow choker and translucent heels was clearly a nod to Cinderella, the heavily-adorned military jackets and bauble button trousers might as well have been plucked straight off Dolce and Stefano Gabbana approached a new storyline, fairy tales, with their intricately whimsical designs.The Nutcracker 's toy soldiers. Of the 97 looks, the '50s frocks with floral prints and blooming appliqués lent a refreshing sense of wearability amongst all the heavy embroidery depicting Snow White's dwarfs and Disney-though there was a certain reverence to that cat print jumpsuit.

SHOP: current season Dolce&Gabbana

Though MSGM's Massimo Giorgett's social-media ban on his fall collection didn't last long, his commendable efforts at slowing the pace and bringing focus back to print and and shops didn't go unnoticed.

But in all fairness, the presentation was practically Instagram gold. What with the mash-up of prints and graphics, quilted puffer and mega sequined skirts, elliptical-appliqué bibs and new-wave neckwear. Destroyed floral knits layered on top of multi-print maxis lent a grunge vibe, while woolen jackets felt retro paired with a belted over-the-shoulder fur wrap. Innovative layering helped close the show, taking the trend to extremes with patterned gauzes, polka dot sequins and mesh knits peeking out or sitting atop mannish button ups.

Angela Missoni's knits appeared in their finest form yesterday in Milan, where her signature zigzags and playful colors coordinated into a casual, but eye-catching collection. Showing her knack for reliable range within a fairly tight niche, Missoni left everyone else in the dust with her honed sense of '70s style. Not taking the fashions too seriously, models donned knobby hats, super short hems, floor-length scarves and fashionable sneaks. The collection veered in the direction of earthy hippy rather than free-loving bohemian, with muted pastels worked into patchwork, contrasting and woven striping. The same zigzag knit was found in sparking lamé maxis layered over their long sleeved counterparts and chainlink bralettes for day and bare, plunging necklines for night.

-Emma Ranniger

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