Vetements Spring 2016 | Fashion Week Journal SPACE

Vetements Spring 2016 | Fashion Week Journal SPACE

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I would like to say that the SPACE brand Vetements, led by creative head Demna Gvasalia, is about high-fashion normcore, but well, normally I try to avoid that overused catchall buzzword.

And yet that's really what's going on when Gvasalia and team send up highly recognizable, totally mainstream elements like lumberjack plaid, calico florals, kitchen aprons and hooded sweatshirts-and common style iconography such as the sport brand Champion-by cutting, pasting, shaping, stretching and totally blowing up the entire idea of them.

They make the most normal stuff totally abnormal. And exclusive.

Here's the story of how they did this inside a Chinese restaurant- with Kanye in attendance -while what might have been Soviet death metal and traditional Georgian folk tunes blared in the background.

Thing #1 in the normal but abnormal category: the aforementioned Chinese restaurant. Le Président is just within the limits of where you'd want to find yourself at 9pm in Paris. And it's huge-especially by Parisian standards. And the hour itself was pushing the very boundaries of Fashion Week tradition. Either because of these things or in spite of them, the mood in the emptied dining room/runway area was electric.

We waited for Kanye for about an hour-okay, the Vetements team waited for Kanye to arrive; all we knew was that it was darn near 10pm-and then finally, in that weird Fashion Week way when all of a sudden you just know it's finally time, all of a sudden it was finally time.

The models-real people, plucked mostly from the international Vetements community -all but stormed the red-walled upper level seating area; you couldn't tell if they were just marching to the music or if they were play-acting some sort of Chinese-waiter-on-speed kind of thing.

Right away, the looks struck that familiar but alien chord. Of-the-moment pieces like blue cotton shirting dresses were cut extra big and styled with floral oilcloth trousers. Oversized logo-driven sporty T-shirts and culotte-shape pants were backless or otherwise redrawn. When "trend" items come from the Vetements laboratory, they definitely don't feel like trends.

Aprons were a very present point of reference, but it definitely didn't have anything to do with the restaurant setting. These were oilcloth again, and floral-like a tablecloth your granny might have nabbed from the picnic as protection from the final course.

New this season was a pronounced sparkle and shine-Vetements does eveningwear? These would be really dramatic red-carpet moments.

Still, the most covetable pieces are those wildly normal ones. The Stop Making Sense-era XXXL jackets and the equally XXXL skirts that complete the suit-with acid-yellow boot stockings, of course.

The hoodies that feel like real reactions to true life. Who hasn't been in the mood for an easy pullover but also somehow in the frame of mind to embrace the female form? What if all sweatshirts had a flattering obi-like belt? And what if you always wore them with lace?

Also, grass green and pale lavender. The simple idea and execution of it.

The collection and the line have big but simple ideas behind them, and they're part of a shift in the overall fashion scene. (Shall I mention all the big, old-guard editors that were there?) But these clothes-like the runway experience-are really, really fun and energizing to wear-and even to look at.

As I walked to the nearby Metro station afterward, I crossed paths with longtime industry pro Julie Gilhart. I've never met her, but we were both still radiating the same weird happy energy, and I didn't feel like ignoring it.

"That was fun, wasn't it?" I said to her.

"Yeah, it really was," she replied, smiling.

See all of our Fashion Week coverage, shop the trends and get inspired on our
Designer Collections Fashion Week hub

Read our Q & A interview with Demna Gvasalia

Shop: current-season Vetements at SPACE

-Laura Cassidy

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